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Charge Door Stuck

13K views 20 replies 19 participants last post by  VoltenRock 
#1 ·
Hi everybody,

I'm sure this is mentioned elsewhere on this site (at least based on the frequency that my OnStar rep said it was), but does anyone else have issues with their charge door not opening, or not opening completely after your press the charge door release button? Every few months is starts doing this and the check engine light comes on. I'm taking it for service soon, but I was just wondering if there is a fix to this. Thanks!
 
#3 ·
Try removing the "sticker"

Sooooo like many here my charge door talks to OnStar almost as often as I do. My dealer even went so far as to give me a "comfort lie" to make me feel better: Told me a squirrel had built a nest inside the fender panel(!) and they had cleaned it out for me. Needless to say the problem returned the same day after leaving the dealer.

But I recently noticed there is a part/model# sticker on the outside wall of the charge port that had started to fray. The EVSE plug rubbed on it every time I plug in, as does the rubber weatherizing on the inside of the charge door.

Use needle nose to remove the sticker, if it is fraying or peeling up, and the charge door can both open and close cleanly! It still stuck a little bit while the glue residue was tacky but after a week the door is opening 100% by itself again. We will see if this holds.

Hope this experience helps others!
 
#4 ·
A little bit of lube on the plastic plunger/pin that holds the door latched closed also helps. Use whatever you like, I put some silicone grease on mine and the operation is Better. It's a bit of a cheesy design, and dirt or cold can render it non-functional.

I've also found that sometimes mine likes to have the release button pressed Twice. Once won't open the door, but a 2nd press will get it..
 
#6 ·
My 2013 does the same thing, more in cold weather. Had one bad dealer tell me that they all do it so stop worrying about it, when I ask about the "check engine light" he had no response.
Doc PI0936 address the problem if your Volt was build between May and August 2012. mine was build December 2012
Doc DTC P0CD2 address Charge Port Door Freezes shut and what to do
 
#8 ·
I thought there was a dealer fix for the sticky door? Optional service bulletin or something... replacing the insides of the door plastic parts...

MrEnergyCzar
 
#9 ·
I still get a sticky door. Mostly when we have had some freezing rain or there is some snow packed in some area's I can't quite clean out.

It's not a problem for me I just listen for the actuator to pull the pin and give it a flick with the finger and it's open.

I did have an issue a year ago where the actuator that retracts the pin stopped working intermittently and the charge door would not open. After a few trips to the dealer for what they thought was a sticky door it finally got fixed.
 
#10 ·
The door on my 2013 was only opening part way but it's springing open nicely now. Unfortunately that was after I carelessly ran over the cable with my snowblower, which caused it to tug on the plug and break a plastic piece to the side of the socket. In this case, my snowblower is fortunately a 120V@15A electric so is low power and it compressed but didn't cut the cable. The EVSE is still working at 8A at least.
 
#11 ·
I too have the sticky/stuck charge door problem. Took it to the dealer 11/29, and they serviced according to a bulletin the tech shared with me. Seemed to help until last night when the "actuator" wouldn't unlock. Sooo back in today. One part "Stator" ordered; expected in Monday or Tuesday. Also having the noisy brake problem, but it comes and goes. (No it's not the anti-lock rumble) Working with Volt Advisor folks and dealer; will update.
2014's simplification of the port door seems a wise decision.
I wondered from the start why the charging door opening was so complex.
The access to the charge plug is of course vital to a car that must be recharged. Absurd that GM so bolixed it. Oddly, my gas door works like a charm in any weather, though of course I use it much less.
 
#12 ·
After studying mine on my 12', spraying and or applying various fluids, I decided to take further action.

Upon close examination I determined the major issue is the physical fit of the door into the latching mechanism. The swing radius of the hinge is too great causing the latching pin area of the door to bind on the body of the housing in the fender well. After consulting the manual on how to replace the hinge assembly I took the following action:

Make a note of the fit of the door cover, the body colored piece, to the body of the car. Is it centered well??
Remove the outer cover.
Use masking tape to cover the portion of the fender near the hinge point.
Using an electric (commercial) heat gun, warm up the area of the hinge near the body.
Using your hand press the face of the hinge where the cover was towards the pivot point of the hinge. The concept here is to reduce the swing radius of the hinge which moves the latching point towards the front of the car and preventing it from binding.
After re-installing the cover, mine now latches and unlatches without any further issue.

I know this may seem strange, even weird to work on an brand new car, but that shows how much I dis-like to be bothered with a session at the dealer. Probable don't have the parts, maybe will install one that fits the same, cause some other damage, etc. etc.

If I damaged the hinge in the process, oh well, now take it to the dealer

Living in S FL this is no help for you folks where the door is frozen over with ice....I assume its your choice to live.
 
#13 ·
Bump!

My 2012 Volt was parked outside and charging during the Snowpocalypse that almost wasn't. Enough snow got in the charging port that despite my best effort to clean it, it melted and refroze sealing the port lid. Last night I could not open it despite my best efforts (no, did not use a hair dryer) so I could not charge. This morning was cold enough for ERDTT, but I also had the check engine light on. Sure enough P0CD2 was triggered as well as P1E00. Thanks to this forum I knew what it was so I drove to werk, parked in the sun and after the ice melted the port opened just fine. Now I just need to reset the codes.

Frankly I still prefer this flawed design for the port lid than the new manual one. It makes my Volt seem more human :)
 
#18 ·
The rubberised part that sits immediately over the socket does not quite align with it. You can see this looking from above. Lube up the one side of the inside of that rubber part that rubs against the socket housing, and it'll open fine. Mine was as tight as a Scotsmans purse when I got it, had to pull at it with fingernails, and wiggled that rubber bit and rubbed silicone grease into it, and it is absolutely fine ever since.
 
#20 ·
Firstly, not everyone monitors old threads. I just happened to get a notification email and so... here I am. Next time after searching fails you - make a new post. :)

BUT no the charge door isn't part of the drive train. You are on your own. As for the codes, they pop all the time as this car was over engineered and meant to be checked on. Which means it is awesome reliable but a bit of a chicken-little. :)

Lube it up! Spray silicon lube is not expensive and will solve your issue 95% of the time. I haven't had to apply any lube - I just removed the sticker (as per my post in this thread).
 
#21 ·
Just FWIW, sometimes going to a dealer with honey (not vinegar, yet) will get you coverage of the issue under the GM customer satisfaction program. This is a well-known issue with the 11-13 Volts, which is why GM abandoned the automated opening doors in '14 and later (including Gen 2). I would also get the Volt Advisor a/k/a Chevrolet Electric Team involved as they should be knowledgeable about this common issue and could hopefully help get it covered.

I had mine fixed 3 times (under B2B warranty) and it's been fine. I have heard it can come back, but with the history of this issue I'm not too worried.
 
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