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Portable 110V cord anti-theft device

66K views 53 replies 39 participants last post by  clint fisher 
#1 · (Edited)
I don't know if anyone had a solution to securing the portable cord from theft so I came up with my own. I have posted some shots.

I will also have a laminated sign tie wrapped warning that unplugging it (from the car or the wall [lie]) will set off the alarm.

Oh, and I did use plastic coated 1/8" stainless steel cable. I just used electrical tape on any part that could scratch paint.
 

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#2 ·
I don't know if anyone had a solution to securing the portable cord from theft so I came up with my own. I have posted some shots.
See this thread on locking up at a hotel for some more ideas. In your arrangement, what's to keep the perp from unlooping the cable from the side view mirror, or unthreading the loop around the cord?

Yeah it'll honk when someone rips off the cord, but does that really do you any good if you're not near the car?
 
#3 · (Edited)
See this thread on locking up at a hotel for some more ideas. In your arrangement, what's to keep the perp from unlooping the cable from the side view mirror, or unthreading the loop around the cord?
The top loop is too small for the lock to fit through so even if you remove the plug from the car, you can't get nearly enough slack to slide it over the mirror. In fact, I measured it would need over a foot of slack to fit over the rather large mirror housing. I used crimp locks to secure the loops so the short section attached to the plug cord will not come off unless you took a grinder to the crimp. Short of using power tools or breaking the mirror off, you can't remove this very easily. Oh, and it cost under $10 with the plastic covered, weather protected lock!
 
#4 ·
Nicely done. Sometimes you just need enough to keep the 'honest' people 'honest'. The dishonest folks, however, will possibly snap your mirror off as the fastest way to take it. I only charge at home currently...I can use a little gas if needed.
 
#5 ·
Yea, I would feel a lot better about the cable hooking around a wheel spoke instead of the mirror. It's almost a fun challenge for them to break your mirror.
 
#6 ·
I don't thing that most theves bother to read warning signs, and the ones that do might be crafty enough to use that information to ther advantage. The good part of this Idea is that it will at least slow them down and when the horn sounds most will run and leave the charger behind. However if no one responds to the alarm they may come back later, better equiped, to get it.

The sad fact is that one of the major buyers of stolen car parts are the car insurence companys, by requiring the car repair shops to purchase used parts when available.

There cant be much of a demand for Volt chargers right now, unless the thieves can take enough of them to create a market for them.

A warning to thoes who purchase stolen goods, the thieves know who bought them and then know where to look for more to steel, I have herd of people purchsing "used" car radios only to have them stolen a month or so later.
 
#7 ·
This is another reason for more public or private charging stations. I charged today at the upscale Fashion Island and there were no problems. Eating at P.F. Chang's, I was able to view the Volt. No one was even noticing the vehicle with the charge cord connected.
 
#9 · (Edited)
As neither are theft proof (just deterrents), I like the wheel attachment variation because it's less likely to cause damage.

Alloy wheel Tire Wheel Rim Automotive tire
Wheel Alloy wheel Auto part Rim Automotive wheel system


I can see the mirror potentially getting snapped off or the black finish marred. The other option I have seen discussed is to simply roll the front tire over the cord. $0. :) But could squeezing the cord between tire and pavement cause wear on the cord?
 
#12 · (Edited)
I would recommend GM build the cord so that once plugged into your Volt you put a special key into the top of the connector and lock it. It could be "locked" with a special button on the key fob also. This would "lock" the charge cord to the Volt and prevent someone from easily removing it from the Volt. Should be a simple fix to the charge cord connector and car using metal bars that slide out or rotate outward in the connector and into metal slots in the car's charge port. Some of you engineers at GM can run with my idea if you want. Just give me some credit for the idea. I can go into further details about my idea if anyone is interested.
 
#13 ·
I would recommend GM build the cord so that once plugged into your Volt you put a special key into the top of the connector and lock it.
Already covered by the SAE 1772 standard:

8.3.6 Unauthorized Access – For unattended public access charging, the coupler should provide a means to engage a locking or latching mechanism to reduce the likelihood of tampering or unauthorized removal
IIRC the Leaf locks its cord when the doors are locked. I don't know why GM didn't choose to lock the cord.


I think it was a mistake to not do so.
 
#15 ·
Padlock Method: I wrap a loop of the supply cord around a wheel spoke and then padlock the end of the loop to the cord itself. The remaining space under the hasp of the padlock is way too small to allow a thief to slide the J1772 connector back through. The only downside I see so far is that this makes the Charge Cord effectively shorter.
 
#19 ·
Sorry JetJock, but I think Joule Thiefs is better. With yours I can already see the ebay listing....120V charging cord and matching Volt mirror for sale. They say ex burglers make the best security people, so someone with thief in their tag probably makes the best anti-theft device!
 
#22 ·
I wouldn't be as concerned over an extension cord, but for that you don't need to fabricate a cable lock, just use a padlock to lock it to the charger handle or tie the extension cord and EVSE plug into a knot and padlock it (not a bad idea to do this anyway when using an extention cord since this prevents accidental unplugging). See examples below.
Wire Cable Electrical supply Electrical wiring Technology
Wire Electrical wiring Technology Electrical supply Electronic device


Also just a side note I thought about when making my cable lock, the J1772 cable would be more difficult to repair if cut due to the pilot comm wire in addition to the 3 power wires (you can't just buy a replacement J1772 cable at Home Depot) so no matter what you definitely want to use this as your primary EVSE lock. The 120V plug on the other hand would be cheap and easy to repair if cut (from a thief's percpective - pun intended :)) so keep that in mind.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Thanks for describing this, but since I am already doing this with my short 2 foot inline GFI, then I went ahead and put an extra loop on my 100 footer. It seems to make the entire package work. Great photos. Hope to have mine up shortly.

FYI, Costco has 100 foot 12/3 outdoor extension cords on closeout in my area for 29.97. The end is lighted if live, like the one above. YMMV
 
#24 ·
A great price on a 100 foot 12/3 cord! I bought mine from Costco too, though it might have been 39.99 since I'm in Canada.
 
#26 ·
I have discussed my solution theoretically before, but now I have actually done it. I bought a wire protector and trimmed it to about 16 inches. I stick my portable EVSE into it took some photos today. I can keep the protector on when I wrap up the cable and it just takes a up a little more space. The only disadvantage is that someone could jack up your car and take it (but really, if someone wants your EVSE, they will get it).

I still have 4 feet of the remaining protector if anyone in the Raleigh area would like (enough for 3 people.)


 
#28 ·
I just started using a 12 gage, 15 foot extension cord that connects to my EVSE and I put my EVSE in my trunk. I then have both cables coming out the bottom of the trunk, the 12 gage to the 120 v outlet and the J1772 to the port on the car. This way it keeps my EVSE dry and secure. I got the idea from another thread on this forum.
 
#30 ·
Don't think I've ever seen a post on it, but at $450 for a ESVE my view is why risk it?
 
#34 ·
This one is by far my favorite yet, simple yet effective. Kudos to all that have posted. It is very interesting to see how everybody has different ideas for solutions to the charger theft issue.
 
#37 ·
I think someone should make the J1772 connector with a padlock hole drilled in the release button. This way you can lock the release button. If you can't press the release button you can't steal it. (Without wire cutters.)

I also think the public chargers should have a solenoid in the J1772 that LOCKS the release button until the owner comes back to the charging station and terminates the charge with his ID card.
 
#41 · (Edited)
There must be room for an under the hood on-board charger, hardwired to the charging port.(no J1772 needed) Just add a retractable 120v cord.
Of course a sense circuit would be needed on the ac line to prevent driving off while plugged in. The external charge port could be used for 220v charge stations.
 
#46 ·
I carry a (combination; 3 foot coiled) bicycle lock which I can usually find a wrought iron fence; pipe or something to secure the cable through the handle on the charger unit. I used this at a hotel, where they ran a extension cord from the electrical room to charge their golf cart. They happened to have a metal fence that enabled me to lock the charger to the fence. I do like the loop through the wheel spoke and the under-wheel charge cord protector. Great ideas people!
 
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