No heat in 2013 on EV
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Thread: No heat in 2013 on EV

  1. #1
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    Default No heat in 2013 on EV

    So I took my 13 to the dealer for the axle click noise and no heat most of the time I'm on electric.

    They said my caliper slides need to be lubricated to fix the axle click noise. They want $70 an axle and want to do both axles. And they want to reprogram the HVAC module for $218 plus a $109 diagnosis fee. I told them I'll pass on everything.

    After the car sits at night I have heat. If I stop somewhere and shut the car off then back on again within a few hours I won't have heat the 2nd time. If the car sits 5-6 hours the second time, I'll have heat.

    They are reprogramming the charger module under voltec warranty as there was a code for it.

    The SW actually told me the engine NEEDS to run to produce heat as the car needs to be in open loop to make heat. So basically he doesn't have a clue. And this is the dealership with the volt specialist in the area.

    kWh jumps up as if the heater is drawing power but no heat.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by turboguy327 View Post
    So I took my 13 to the dealer for the axle click noise and no heat most of the time I'm on electric.

    They said my caliper slides need to be lubricated to fix the axle click noise. They want $70 an axle and want to do both axles. And they want to reprogram the HVAC module for $218 plus a $109 diagnosis fee. I told them I'll pass on everything.

    After the car sits at night I have heat. If I stop somewhere and shut the car off then back on again within a few hours I won't have heat the 2nd time. If the car sits 5-6 hours the second time, I'll have heat.

    They are reprogramming the charger module under voltec warranty as there was a code for it.

    The SW actually told me the engine NEEDS to run to produce heat as the car needs to be in open loop to make heat. So basically he doesn't have a clue. And this is the dealership with the volt specialist in the area.

    kWh jumps up as if the heater is drawing power but no heat.
    There was a known problem with the 2013 heater module. Flashing doesn't fix it AFAIK. They had to replace the module.

    Do a search about it. Consider finding a dealer who works on more Volts. They should have known that flashing doesn't fix it.

    I'm also suspicious about the caliper pins making axle noise. It's another noted issue, and has nothing to do with the calipers. Some axles were not torqued to spec at the factory. Retorquing could make the issue vanish, but if it doesn't, the axles have a 5 year warranty.
    Last edited by Qinsp; 12-20-2016 at 01:44 PM.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Qinsp View Post
    There was a known problem with the 2013 heater module. Flashing doesn't fix it AFAIK. They had to replace the module.

    Do a search about it. Consider finding a dealer who works on more Volts. They should have known that flashing doesn't fix it.
    That's what I told him from research on here and he said that flashing new software is the repair. Do you know the partnumber for the module or what GM calls it so I can just replace it myself? As it's not under warranty I don't want to deal with a dealer any more than I have too.

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  6. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by turboguy327 View Post
    That's what I told him from research on here and he said that flashing new software is the repair. Do you know the partnumber for the module or what GM calls it so I can just replace it myself? As it's not under warranty I don't want to deal with a dealer any more than I have too.
    Get ahold of your Volt Advisor. I believe this dealer is trying to scam you. GM knows a batch of the heater modules were defective. And they know some of the cars didn't get the axles tightened to the correct spec.
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    It does make me ill that they would charge that much for flashing. Reflashing is acknowledging the module was not programmed correctly when sold.

    I used to flash friend's cars in under 30 minutes total time in my driveway.

    BTW - a computer program flash into a module doesn't "fail" due to decay. At least not that I've seen. If the car heat was working before, now it does not, how the hell is a flash going to change anything? The old flash fell out on the ground?
    Last edited by Qinsp; 12-20-2016 at 01:53 PM.
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  8. #6
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    Is the axle click noise every rotation, or only when you accelerate and decelerate (and more like a thump than a click)? Does it happen once, every time you change speeds?
    Last edited by llninja; 12-20-2016 at 01:58 PM.
    LLninja (greenback troll #1)
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  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by llninja View Post
    Is the axle click noise every rotation, or only when you accelerate and decelerate (and more like a thump than a click)? Does it happen once, every time you change speeds?
    It's the very definition of a click just after I accelerate or when braking with regen in L just before the car slows as much as it will in L. Just once click though. Not t a steady noise.

  10. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Qinsp View Post
    It does make me ill that they would charge that much for flashing. Reflashing is acknowledging the module was not programmed correctly when sold.

    I used to flash friend's cars in under 30 minutes total time in my driveway.

    BTW - a computer program flash into a module doesn't "fail" due to decay. At least not that I've seen. If the car heat was working before, now it does not, how the hell is a flash going to change anything? The old flash fell out on the ground?
    Yea, that's my thought as well. A program just won't change for no reason. Something is wrong, telling it to do the wrong thing or the module itself can't do what it was or interpret information.

  11. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by turboguy327 View Post
    It's the very definition of a click just after I accelerate or when braking with regen in L just before the car slows as much as it will in L. Just once click though. Not t a steady noise.
    Then take the front wheels off and torque the front axle nuts. If you let it go for too long, you might end up needing new bearings. The dealer is wrong about the brakes. I had the same proble, I was thinking it might be a bad bearing, and made the mistake of bringing it into the dealership before even trying to tighten the nuts. It would have been a great excuse for a new right-sized socket. I'm kicking myself for the $116 I spent on something I could have done myself.

    Another forum user carefully pried out the center caps and used a socket extender to get to the axle nuts without taking off the wheels.
    LLninja (greenback troll #1)
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    If I can get the guy in the mirror under control I can be skinny and rich.
    If you don't have the money, don't buy it.
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  13. #10
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    Default No heat in 2013 on EV

    Quote Originally Posted by Qinsp View Post
    Get ahold of your Volt Advisor. I believe this dealer is trying to scam you. GM knows a batch of the heater modules were defective. And they know some of the cars didn't get the axles tightened to the correct spec.
    According to the volt advisor, there is no known problem with axle nuts it's and the heater control module would not be covered under any warranty as it's not part of the voltec system but he did insist that a reflash would not fix any problems and may actually make things worse.

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