WOTs COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR / SERVICE HIGH VOLTAGE CHARGING SYSTEM MESSAGE DEFEAT PLUG
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Thread: WOTs COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR / SERVICE HIGH VOLTAGE CHARGING SYSTEM MESSAGE DEFEAT PLUG

  1. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by ampera_jed View Post
    Out of curiosity (sorry if I've missed it and this has been asked and answered), how does the sensor work if there is no contact with anything. Is it capacitive?...
    Quote Originally Posted by somms View Post
    WOT explained in earlier posts that the sensor resistance output is based on how it detects the level of the float in the tank thru a magnet I believe...
    I am probably wrong but my recollection is that it emulates the proper behavior of the actual sensor when the fluid level is correct and does not actually measure the fluid level, and that is why WOT has reminded us all to regularly check the fluid level after installing the 'sensor'.

    KNS

  2. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by kns View Post
    I am probably wrong but my recollection is that it emulates the proper behavior of the actual sensor when the fluid level is correct and does not actually measure the fluid level, and that is why WOT has reminded us all to regularly check the fluid level after installing the 'sensor'. KNS
    I think ampera_jed was asking how does the original sensor work if it is not actually inside the tank? Which I would also like to know.
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  3. #153
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    Sorry, yes I mean the original sensor.

    I expect the replacement is 'just' a passive resistor.

    I can't see how a magnetic sensor in the original would detect an aqueous solution.

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  5. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSquare View Post
    I think ampera_jed was asking how does the original sensor work if it is not actually inside the tank? Which I would also like to know.
    Quote Originally Posted by ampera_jed View Post
    Sorry, yes I mean the original sensor.

    I expect the replacement is 'just' a passive resistor.

    I can't see how a magnetic sensor in the original would detect an aqueous solution.
    It's a reed switch that closes when in proximity to a magnet mounted on the bottom of the float in the reservoir. The switch state changes the electrical resistance in a small resistor network and the resulting voltage drop monitored by the control module.

    The orientation of the replacement sensor doesn't really matter as it is an environmentally sealed connection as is the device itself.

    WOT
    Last edited by WopOnTour; 2 Weeks Ago at 03:24 PM.
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  6. #155
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    OK, though I can't say I spotted anything floating in the reservoir!

    There are, still, wires going into the back of the connector, never perfectly sealed grommits. I was thinking just to cable tie the WOT thing onto the sensor and just thread the sensor back into place. That will keep the same appearance from a casual glance and the service techs will be less likely to throw a fit over something they don't understand.
    Last edited by ampera_jed; 2 Weeks Ago at 07:35 PM.

  7. #156
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    I had that SHVCS failure some weeks ago. I brought it to the dealer and he wanted to replace the harness which has helped on the last customer car.
    After having read this thread I ordered a new sensor and told him to exchange the sensor first and not redo the wiring.
    He changed the sensor and reset the DTCs and issue was solved. Unfortunately it occured again after 8 days.
    After that I agreed with him to put a new harness from the control to the sensor. After getting the car back it was again 8 days fine then the message was back again (after resetting all DTCs only the P1FFF remains so I assume I could reset it without reprogramming).

    Now my questions: Can you imagine that the new sensor is already failing after that short time?
    What I have understood now is that I should check whether 5V are in place at the sensors plug and If yes I can assume the sensor is defect?
    Then it would be of course useful to have the defeat plug installed.

    @ WOTo you also deliver that to Germany for these 29$?
    Or could you tell me how I can convert one of my two available sensors into your defeat plug?

    In any case thank all of you for the useful information which can be found here!

  8. #157
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    If you look down the reservoir with the cap removed , you see a dark square device on the bottom of the reservoir,,,looks like small magnet , no cables.

  9. #158
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    I had that SHVCS failure seom weeks ago. I brought it to the dealer and he wanted to replace the harness which has helped on his last customer car.
    After having read the defeat plug thread I ordered a new sensor and told him to exchange the sensor first and not redo the wiring.
    He changed the sensor and reset the DTCs and issue was solved. Unfortunately it occured again after 8 days.
    After that I agreed with him to put a new harness from the control to the sensor. After getting the car back it was again 8 days fine then the message was back again (after resetting all DTCs on lt he P1FFF remains so I assume I could reset it without reprogramming).

    Now my questions: Can you imagine that the new sensor is already failing after that short time?
    What I have understood now is that I should check whether 5V are in place at the sensors plug and If yes I can assume the sensor is defect?
    Then it would be of course useful to have WOTs defeat plug installed.

    WoT: Do you also deliver that to Germany for these 29$?
    Or could you tell me how I can convert one of my two available sensors into your defeat plug?

    Thank again all of you for this informative forum!!

  10. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by ampera_jed View Post
    OK, though I can't say I spotted anything floating in the reservoir!

    There are, still, wires going into the back of the connector, never perfectly sealed grommits. I was thinking just to cable tie the WOT thing onto the sensor and just thread the sensor back into place. That will keep the same appearance from a casual glance and the service techs will be less likely to throw a fit over something they don't understand.
    That works too. I've been generally recommending that once you pop out the old sensor to simply throw it in the glove box and retain it in case you ever wish to return it to factory stock. (otherwise its connection interface WILL be exposed to the elements and eventually start to corrode) The float is really hard to see and made of the same plastic as the reservoir itself. I have some photos. Will try to post them later

    Thanks again for the support
    WOT
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  12. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conny View Post
    I had that SHVCS failure seom weeks ago. I brought it to the dealer and he wanted to replace the harness which has helped on his last customer car.
    After having read the defeat plug thread I ordered a new sensor and told him to exchange the sensor first and not redo the wiring.
    He changed the sensor and reset the DTCs and issue was solved. Unfortunately it occured again after 8 days.
    After that I agreed with him to put a new harness from the control to the sensor. After getting the car back it was again 8 days fine then the message was back again (after resetting all DTCs on lt he P1FFF remains so I assume I could reset it without reprogramming).

    Now my questions: Can you imagine that the new sensor is already failing after that short time?
    What I have understood now is that I should check whether 5V are in place at the sensors plug and If yes I can assume the sensor is defect?
    Then it would be of course useful to have WOTs defeat plug installed.

    WoT: Do you also deliver that to Germany for these 29$?
    Or could you tell me how I can convert one of my two available sensors into your defeat plug?

    Thank again all of you for this informative forum!!
    Sorry to hear you've been inflicted with SHVCS disease on the Ampera in Europe too! (although I'm sure you'll realize I'm not surprised)

    Too difficult to tell, but I've never heard the sensor fail that quickly
    Did you run over some significant bumps perhaps? Where is your coolant level? It should be adjusted to the TOP of the black label on the reservoir. If it's power than that (say mid-seam) I've heard of people hitting a "speed bump" too hard, dropping the float, and triggering the DTCs. But I've never been able to recreate those conditions myself (I tried)The only other thing might be a connection issue at the module itself. Any other issues occurring?

    But depending on the actual failure and the sequence of the DTCs there is a slim possibility a basic code clear command will reset everything. If not you'll have little choice but to have HPCM2 "reprogrammed" again. I know grrrrrrrr

    So far we have been able to send WOT's coolant level sensor for $5 additional cost for international airmail so $34USD should do it
    Sorry but all my instructions will be in English but that doesn't appear to be an issue

    Should you decide to order one thanks for the support
    and good luck with your car!

    WopOnTour
    Last edited by WopOnTour; 1 Week Ago at 12:50 AM.
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