Incomplete Charge - New 120V cord

[landisj]

I have a 2012 Volt with 13,000 miles on it. The new battery cage fix was done 3 months ago and I am using the new 120V charge cord.

Every so often I do not get a complete charge (shows 15, 25, 22 miles available) and the upper right (B) light is a solid Red. The upper left A light stays solid Green. The Charging status light on the car is off when this happens, so I know I didn't get a full charge before getting in the car. The manual indicates the B light has something to do with ground faults, but both lights are supposed to be Red and flashing. I can disconnect the plug, plug it back in and I can get a complete charge. I charge it at night and find the problem in the morning. The circuit breaker is on and seems ok. I don't remember this happening with the original cord. Anyone have an idea of what is going wrong?

[caronjeff]

This subject seems rather common, probably your house wiring would be suspect. The 110V outlet used should be preferably on its own circuit and new, with the grounds properly wired. Maybe try a charge on a different outlet or at a friend or neighbors.

[Neromanceres]

Based on what you have said this is an odd situation that happens sometimes but is not the normal. Is that correct?

There are a few things that can create false tripping of a ground fault. High electrical noise (from things like CFL ballast's, Micorwaves etc..). Or a surge current on the line can trick a ground fault. Electrical arching on a line or even a line on the same side of the pannel can cause a false trip as well.

We test our products for some of these conditions to reduce the sensitivity of false tripping but it still happens. Perhaps the Voltec 120V charger is a little too sensitive.

[Fulgerite]

We read about these issue every week on this Forum.

About 90%+ of these problems are caused by one of the following.

1. Using a cheap extension cord that is under sized. It need to be kept to a minimum length and made from 12 gauge wire.

2. Other appliances sharing the same circuit causing "brownouts" or pulling the voltage down below the acceptable range.

3. The circuit being wired with 14 gauge wire and a long run. (Again... this can lead to an under voltage situation.)

4. Old wall receptacles with worn spring contacts or corrosion. Or the wires are terminated with "stab" connections. The receptacle should be replaced with a commercial grade outlet. (Not the 79 cent ones from Home depot...) The wires should be terminated to the screw contacts on the receptacle. Not the stab connectors.

5. Old circuit breakers with weak or corroded buss contacts.

6. Poorly bonded or grounded circuit panels. (This is a hazard for the whole home not just the car.)

Check these 6 items and you probably will be able to charge with no further issues.

[Steverino]

Check these 6 items and you probably will be able to charge with no further issues.

Agreed.

But just in case, I decided to go back to the good old days last night charge the car using the new 110v charge cord.

I plugged into the same high quality GFI, exterior, weather-protected outlet—wiring screwed on (no pushin connection) and a dedicated circuit—that I had used successfully for half of 2011 with the old charge cord.

Result? The Volt charged perfectly, just like before.

I did notice that the strain relief that caused so many complaints on the old charge cord now comes pre-broken on the new cord, sheesh. Who knew that engineering a durable strain relief on a power cord would be so challenging for a company like Leer (the mfr of the Voltec charge units)?

[landisj]

Thanks Fulgerite, but I checked all 6 items and none are true. The circuit breaker and GFI didn't fault at all. The house is 12 yrs old with up to date wiring. The circuit it is on includes only garage lights and garage door opener. The charging cycle stops at 15 or 23 or 29 miles randomly, but it has to happen in the middle of the night. I plug it in at 7-8 pm and check it at 7-8 the next morning. IT charge just fine last night to 39 miles. I must have electrical gremlins.

We read about these issue every week on this Forum.

About 90%+ of these problems are caused by one of the following.

1. Using a cheap extension cord that is under sized. It need to be kept to a minimum length and made from 12 gauge wire.

2. Other appliances sharing the same circuit causing "brownouts" or pulling the voltage down below the acceptable range.

3. The circuit being wired with 14 gauge wire and a long run. (Again... this can lead to an under voltage situation.)

4. Old wall receptacles with worn spring contacts or corrosion. Or the wires are terminated with "stab" connections. The receptacle should be replaced with a commercial grade outlet. (Not the 79 cent ones from Home depot...) The wires should be terminated to the screw contacts on the receptacle. Not the stab connectors.

5. Old circuit breakers with weak or corroded buss contacts.

6. Poorly bonded or grounded circuit panels. (This is a hazard for the whole home not just the car.)

Check these 6 items and you probably will be able to charge with no further issues.

[HOUSTONVOLTAGE]

I just traded in my old charge cord for the new one - big mistake! Why do I do these things??? Trade a working part for an unknown??? I blame myself for this one, but the new cord worked for about 2 days. Now it just blinks red on the two lights at the top. The outlet didn't change, no work was done on the house wiring, so something changed/broke in the new charger. BUMMER!

Update:
Took the faulted cord in to the dealer and next day I got a replacement. If the new cord faults they told me they will have to have the car so they can see if something in it is causing the cord problem. They offered no info on the faulted cord - why it may have failed. While I was without a cord I was researching replacements and saw a ClipperCreek cord, level 1, for $700 bucks. I may get one if this new one fails - just doesn't make sense to have an electric car and not be able to charge it. http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/Cli...StoreFront.bok