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How To: Add backup Camera to MyLink equiped Volt (not for pre-MyLink cars)

94K views 73 replies 30 participants last post by  InvisiBill 
#1 · (Edited)
First off, please note that this is ONLY for myLink equipped Volts (Nav and non-Nav units). This will not work for any Volt equipped with the older, pre-myLink OEM radio. If you are unsure which radio unit you have, please take the time to uncover what model you do have. My understanding is that MY2013 and newer Chevy Volts are ALL equipped with the myLink radio. I am also of the understanding that there are indeed some later production 2012 which were able to get a myLink radio (do not hold me to that).
If you have a pre-myLink Radio, please go to this sticky for instructions:

GM-Volt Sticky for pre-MyLink "Add Backup Cam"

OK... now to why you really came here to read this!

Outline: You bought (or leased?) a Chevy Volt that did not come with the Safety Package #1 option (this was the ONLY way to get a factory installed backup cam), but you'd like to "add" a backup camera to your car.


You will hear 2 "clicks" - 1st is shift into reverse; 2nd is shift back into park (exactly like factory minus the sensors)

OK - you have 2 options. Both involve physically installing an after-market backup camera (more about that in a bit) or the factory GM part(s). The "options" then kick in as to how one integrates the hardware into their myLink radio programming such that the camera works much like the factory package (that is - the backup camera displays onto the myLink screen automatically when in reverse, just sans the Safety Package #1 backup location sensors).

Option #1: (and this is the "best" option in my opinion) Have your factory myLink radio programmed by White Auto and Media services (link here: WAMS ). This option provides the safest upgrade because it essentially removes the code check for the CVN that decides whether or not the bit/byte within the code gets turned on (allowing the hardware to work). Additionally, WAMS adds in-motion features to the programming giving you features that no other Volt will have (at least not without the programming from WAMS anyway)! The biggest down-side to this is the need to send off your factory radio to WAMS, but my experience was that it wasn’t an issue at all.

Option #2: You can “find” a VIN that matches you cars configuration (EXACTLY) including the CVN and part numbers (note: this takes some tedious searching on your part and requires you to use the GM Web2TIS site to do the manual look ups to ensure an exact match). You then have to take you vehicle into a dealer service center (hoping they will be cooperative in the process) and have your radio re-programmed with the “fake” VIN so as to allow your radio hardware to take the programming. There seems to be multiple issues – potential and real – with this route. At the very least, many will find that their local deal will refuse, or will charge at least one hours service as a minimum (seems $100+ is the going rate for those lucky enough to find a cooperative dealer service center). AND you will be required to have it re-programmed every time your radio needs an update (or the update will be refused), and there is some speculation that you may not ever be able to return your radio back to factory programming (albeit I’m not sure that this is 100% true). Certainly… this option has more risk and potentially more costly method unless you have the good fortune that your radio never requires any update or fix. Lastly… GM has announced that myLink WILL get an upgrade path to allow for “Apps” (much like are enjoyed by Apple products). It seems certain that if one chooses this option, you will NOT be able to use this upgrade (remains to be proven – but there is more than just speculation about this that makes it a certainty).

Hardware and Installation:


Hardware: There are numerous aftermarket hardware offerings out there. I leave it to you to decide on the right one for you. My choice was the High Kick HK-3188 and included everything I needed to do my installation

Hooked-on-tronics HK-3188 Backup Cam

• Resolution: NTSC/PAL 640(H) x 480(V)
• Lens Viewing Angle: 170(H)/120(V)
• High Performance Color Sensor Like CCD
• Wide-Angle
• Compact Size
• Automatic White Balance
• Low Power Consumption
• Rear-view Parking Guide Lines
• Night Vision
• Water-proof

The most important features will have to do with the cameras ability to work well in all lighting conditions and display a quality picture back to the display screen. Not always an easy thing to know, so look to others recommendations as a way to know if the one you are choosing has had any known issues. Be sure to consider the lens viewing angle and pick one you feel is good for your needs. I liked the idea of something more than 120 degrees in the horizontal, but thought 120 was a better choice for the vertical.
One thing I liked particularly was this cameras ability to change settings via the two wire loops (to which I added a micro switch so I could more easily change them as I desired). The display was also clean, accurate (for a low end camera such as it is) and very colorful (as tested on my home 47” 1080p LED). Other things I liked about it were the overall casing design. It lent itself to a decent waterproofing ability, had a built-in cinch ring such that when installed it would resist coming out on its own from vibration and other environmental factors, as well a nice 3M sticky tape surround pad which seemed to add to the waterproofing and installation abilities.
Installation: The hole-saw provided with my backup camera kit (may not apply in your case) was cheap, but very effective and I took my time measuring and marking for the proper hole placement. Seeing as how the field of view was 170(H)/120(V), I wanted to make sure the eventual mount was as far rearward as possible since I wanted to avoid any image edge cut-off from the near-by top and bottom edge of the soft bumper fascia. Due to the drill location, I had to drill the hole at a slight angle (go slowly if this is also the case for yourself). It would have been much easier had I had a right angle chuck (use it if you have it). Once it was all in,
I used this video link



to help me with the routing of the wiring (note that this company does sell a kit and it uses option #2 for the programming – not the best, and unnecessary considering those instructions are provided here should you decide to go this route). NOTE: It is very important that you wire the camera power to the BCM (see video) if you want the camera power to perform as factory. If you decide to wire it directly to the backup light, it will be easier – but you will also get a big delay with a blank screen (not good and not professional looking) if do not hook the power to the BCM.
Also note that the #5 (+) [Grey/Yellow stripe] and #15 (-) [White/Blue stripe] on the rear x4 connector to the A11 radio wiring is the correct connection for the video signal (there were at least one wiring diagram which was labeled incorrectly. Here are some helpful diagrams that should clarify the wiring...





After you have completed the hardware install, you are ready to now have the programming of your myLink radio done (select one of two options).

Dealer Programming Option (#1)
As mentioned earlier, this programming option requires you first find a cooperative service dealer. Mine was not. They flat out refused to do it, and – at the time – I was quite unhappy about it. As it turned out, I discovered they had a very legitimate reason and I’m now glad they did. (A) it was really not in my best interest, and (B) it really does open up some liability with them as well as jeopardize their relationship with GM Service as they are not supposed to perform this type of service (it IS expressly forbidden by GM as I later found out). Typically that fee is in the neighborhood of $100-$125 (or about 1-2 hours at their shop rate) – some more, and some less. The process requires that another VIN number be located which matches your Volt’s build EXACTLY (including part numbers and their associated CVNs). If this is not done correctly, the programming is toast and you just shelled out good $ for nothing. The most important thing to note (cost-wise) is that you will likely have to have it repeated (at your expense again) in the case where your radio needs to be updated (if that happens at all since the VIN number has now been changed). The jury is still out on this regarding the down sides (some of this is somewhat speculation, albeit very educated speculation based on real expert knowledge of the architecture). I know some folks will defend it, but it’s not hard to come to the same conclusions if one is truly objective and unprejudiced about it.

3rd Party Programming Option (#2)
The only company I am aware of (at this writing) who offer this service is White Auto and Media Services / (see GTPprix here on the forum). They do A LOT of GM programming work for dealers and private party. Their product comes with added features and is commonly referred to as VIM (or in-motion) programming. This programming is (1) permanent, and (2) they back it in the odd case your vehicle radio dies and has to be replaced (see details from them). The cost is higher ($199) – but, given the permanency and added features, it is actually the cheaper and better value option. In essence, you pay them via their online order system at their website; pack up you radio and send it off to them, they program it and send it back to you via UPS (you choose the service level you desire for return shipping). Easy-peasy….


(yes... my diveway is old and "pebbley"!)

I want to take a moment here and give credit to rvanwin in helping me get to this conclusion for myLink. He actually was the first (I know of) to succeed in having the backup cam work (except for a delay) by using the “fake” VIN method (Option #1). There were others who lent their help as well, but he and I batted this around and looked hard at this when it seemed it wasn’t possible (and we didn’t know why at the time since others – that is, those who had pre-myLink cars – were having great success with the programming portion due to the completely different architecture). You will find his input over at the aforementioned link which would be most helpful if you decide to go with option #1 (dealer programming). Just be very aware of the negatives and ultimately the possibility that you will spend more over the long run and end up with less.
Added credit to Meedo who uncovered the pre-myLink upgrade path for adding a backup camera (see the link in the first part of this post). He inspired some of us to do so on our own myLink models and got me (anyway) to see it through to its conclusion.
 
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#3 ·
Awesome write up! :) Those of you thinking about trying the VIN scam GM themselves outline the reasons why not to do this in Techlink at least once every six months and someone even went so far as to make a video out of it LOL Reprogramming the radio in this manner is the same as swapping it.

http://sandyblogs.com/techlink/?p=2919
http://sandyblogs.com/techlink/?p=401
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IeB3T-UEJeE
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-137315.html


I have actually tried this on my bench with a my link and the update software area comes up grey and gives you an error. I say this not just to sell a product but so that people don't get charged twice (or worse) when we have to fix it. We have encountered this on other forums and it doesn't end well financially for the person who tried it typically.
 
#5 ·
Wow, I just started looking for directions on how to install a backup camera (other than OEM) on a Volt and I find this thread. I finally feel confident enough to do this. Thank you for the detailed yet easy to understand technical instructions. I've copied the contents of your post and created a file and a paper copy.

I appreciate the large amount of time you've taken to help! Members like you make this forum invaluable to Volt owners.

 
#6 ·
Thanks brutha....

Very happy to share. I'm going to expand a bit more on the post (adding pics and maybe a video) that should help even more!
 
#9 ·
I was part way thru the install on my 2014 Volt base when I stopped after following the threads on adding backup camera and realizing it wasn't going to be so straightforward.

I have got as far as installing the camera, running the wiring to the front of the car and most importantly powering camera from the reverse lamp +ve wire already, so reluctant to redo and power from BCM as you describe above.

Can you elaborate on why this approach will cause delay / blank screen, cant see why it would make a difference. Did you try it that way first and found this issue?
 
#10 ·
No... rvanwin did however. I went to the extra trouble to wire to BCM because I wasn't willing to have the delay...


I had success this morning. My backup camera is working and really looks good.
...

The only other minor issue is that the original camera would stay on for 10 - 20 seconds after you take it out of reverse. Because it was easier, I got power for the camera directly from the backup lights. My camera turns off immediately when I take it out of reverse causing the screen to go blank for the 10 - 20 seconds. The third party instructions (video) shows tapping into a wire coming out of the BCM located in the side of the passenger foot well. I wonder if this wire maintains power for the backup camera for the 10 - 20 seconds?
....
 
#13 ·
That is great! I'm ready to proceed. Once I get the radio out of my car and reprogrammed, I'm going to pay my service guy to install the camera and add backup sensors. (yeah, I know, a bit pricey, but it's cheaper than buying another Volt.)

I have a stupid question, though....How do I remove the radio to send to WAMS? I searched all over the forum and I can't find a thread for removing the radio.

AND ANOTHER BIG QUESTION: Once I remove my radio, is my Volt drivable???
 
#17 ·
You could replace the factory cam - but realize that it may not be an improvement. [1] You are limited by the resolution of the center stack display, and [2] This is an NTSC signal. I don't know the resolution, but I do believe it's ~ 480 lines (and somewhere around 700 horizontal - probably 640 or 720 - my guess would be 640).

There is a factory camera upgrade from GM as long as you have the "bad" model. Otherwise you'll need to take your chances and maybe get a recommendation. But yes - you can replace the existing camera. And No - you don't need this if you already have a factory backup cam (which came with Safety Package 1).
 
#19 ·
SUCCESS!!

Ok, I sent my radio off to Whiteaudioandmedia.com to be programmed while I was out of town. It was waiting on me when I got back last Sunday. I had tried to rig up video connector by clipping of the end of an rca cable I had. (didn't work) So, ordered one from Amazon and voila! Backup camera integrated into the radio. As a bonus, the navigation input can now be done while in motion, but only by the passenger. ;)

Total Costs

WAMS reprogramming: $230 including shipping
camera: $50 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0092YMZJY/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
rca connector: $8 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003U44LBM/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

Attachments

#21 ·
I know I will need to have the radio reprogrammed, but instead of running new wiring, could you just replace the rear bumper harness with the one for cars with safety pack 1 and plug the OE camera into that? Looks like the harness is only $50 on GM parts direct, and would give you a more OE install, and be reversible (well other than the hole for the camera). I have read the rear bumper is a pain to get off, but haven't been able to fine the procedure anywhere.
 
#33 ·
Has anyone tried this? Do we know how much camera-related wiring is in the non-camera cars, and where it terminates? If it's not too difficult/expensive, I'd prefer to add the OEM camera wiring to the rear bumper rather than running it all the way up to the front myself.
 
#22 ·
The threads which include pics and instructions were great. Thanks to WAMS for reporgramming my radio! However....be forewarned. There were little items which gave me a hard time....like these thin little wires on the gray plug at the BCM where you get power for the camera adn also the wires at the radio plug for wiring the camera are thin. I bought quick taps (yes...the red ones pictured in one of the threads) but could not use them....had to cut and splice. . Also I used the recommended camera which turned out to be a "POS". My suggestion is get a camera with IR LED's....you'll get a better picture and they have quick connect plugs you can hardwire. I just finished wiring in the NEW camera (it cost me 5.99 on EBay...$10 bucks wih shiping) but I am a happy camper till my next project!!!
 
#23 · (Edited)
I'm a titch confused. The A11 connector for the video feed is at the back of the radio, right?

So on to camera power...if you're running that from the BCM rather than from the reverse lamp wiring (so that you don't get the momentary blank screen mentioned previously), what plug and which wire do you get it from? Either I missed it or it hasn't been mentioned. If it's the former, please excuse and point me to it if you would.

Edit: Never mind...missed the part about watching the video for instructions. For easier reference, it's the green/white stripe wire at the grey plug in the BCM.
 
#24 · (Edited)
This is the camera I decided to use. The OEM camera was just too expensive and didn't offer guidelines on the 2013. It was $20, and came from China in just 9 days:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/33141630112...49.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&rmvSB=true

Although after I bought it, I found the same thing on amazon.com for $5 less, which is pretty typical of my luck:

http://www.amazon.com/CHEVROLE-Wate...7392552&sr=8-3&keywords=malibu+reverse+camera

As you can see, it's built into a knock-off Malibu license plate lamp housing (the Volt and Malibu use the same part). I liked the idea of not having to drill out the bumper to fit the camera, though the camera ends up being slightly off from center. The housing quality is pretty good overall, but I have a quibble with the molding quality inside the bulb socket - as you can see from the picture below, it's not that great in the knock-off compared to the original, so the bulb holder isn't a tight fit. I'll solve this by using a rubber or fiber washer between the bulb holder and socket, so not a big deal:



Here is the picture quality it offers, though the pictures you're seeing are photographed from a 19" 720P TV rather than the Volt's display, since I'm not there with that part of the install yet. I think they're pretty comparable to those from the camera in my LEAF, although the guidelines are fatter (though also easier to see, which might work out better for my wife anyway). On thing that is different is that red definitely represents the danger zone with this camera and, as you can see from the picture where my LEAF is closest to the Volt's bumper, I wouldn't be comfortable with anyone backing the car up so it's closer than the part of the yellow zone with the parallel line - it represents enough room for someone to get between the bumper of the Volt and the front bumper of the car behind, so normal parking really. In the picture where I parked the LEAF and it ended up on the green parallel line in the camera...that's probably where I'd normally pull up on someone if waiting at a traffic signal. Just to give you some context.



 
#25 ·
I had seen those cameras and wondered if they were the same as the malibu. Will be interested to see your final install. I still wonder if the harness behind the bumper could be swapped with one for a car with backup camera, and just splice in there instead of running wires throughout the car.
 
#26 · (Edited)
I find myself a bit less enthused about my camera choice now that I've gotten it installed properly and have had a chance to play with it at different times of the day.

Fit and finish wise...I did solve the loose bulb holder problem I mentioned in an earlier post by doubling up the rubber O-ring on the bulb holder. Then I found the whole assembly was a little looser in the bumper cover than I would have liked, and I solved that by a bit of thin, self-adhesive rubber stripping attached to the inside of the bumper cover where the bulb holder end of the assembly hooks in.

It turns out that picture quality on the Volt's smaller screen is, unfortunately, not as good as on the 19" TV I used for testing (don't tell the wife...she'll want me to permanently install the 19" TV in the car!). The biggest problem is that the contrast/brightness is a bit on the low side, and that's something I don't think is adjustable within the car (right?). Also the camera doesn't do as well as my LEAF's factory camera in all lighting situations, particularly once dusk starts to set in and in the dark (though the massive reversing light in the Volt helps some in darkness). I may have to look at some camera alternatives after all. However, I don't think this is completely bad solution when it comes to one that is completely reversible without anyone realizing it was ever there.

Another issue that I'm having that is more silver-box than camera is the amount of time for the regular screen to return when the car is taken out of reverse and put into drive. You can see it in the YouTube video I uploaded. It doesn't take as long when the car is taken out of reverse and returned to park, and it doesn't do it at all when the camera is instead hooked up to the TV, which is how I know that it's definitely something that's silver-box related. In the video you'll see me move the shifter from park to reverse and back, then from reverse to drive twice, and then finally back to park.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuvslViZhdA

Sorry for the image quality in the pictures...not enough light when I took them on my iPhone. I may change them out when time permits.


 
#32 ·
It turns out that picture quality on the Volt's smaller screen is, unfortunately, not as good as on the 19" TV I used for testing (don't tell the wife...she'll want me to permanently install the 19" TV in the car!). The biggest problem is that the contrast/brightness is a bit on the low side, and that's something I don't think is adjustable within the car (right?).

Sure enough, my wife had to use the camera for the first time yesterday and came back to me with the observation, "It's a bit dark". So the hunt for a better camera will no doubt continue.

I think we've decided that we're going to pass on installing the time delay relay, at least for now. It works fine as it is, and if I do install the relay it's going to have the same modified behavior when we go from reverse to park (and I'll admit this would rarely happen, because most of the time you'd go from drive to park), which works fine right now. I'll look at the issue further down the road if I find it bugs me way too much.
 
#35 ·
I've been chatting with a very knowledgeable friend on another forum who has access to a lot of GM technical data. My radio was at WAMS getting reprogrammed and the car was in the body shop, so the discussion was based on what's been posted here and what I thought should logically happen based on how the circuits look.

I was quite confused about the reported delay when tapping into the reverse light circuit for camera power. If you look at the bumper harness mentioned above (the UD5 option), the OEM camera actually gets its power from a tap into the reverse light. If you look up that circuit (#1324), the wire coming out of the BCM (which is the one tapped in the MVI video from the OP; connector X7 pin #3) connects directly to the body harness (X275 #37), which connects directly to the bumper harness (X450/451 #1). It's simply a different point in the same wire that feeds the reverse light.



Based on posts I read here, I assumed that the screen switched when it got/lost a video signal from the camera, which occurred when the camera got/lost power. I thought maybe the delays occurred because there was residual power backfeeding from the reverse light into the camera (keeping it turned on for a bit) or something.

I've got my car and radio back now, and have done some quick testing with my setup (still figuring out the final install details). I got the steered guidelines option (I saw it in a coworker's Ford and thought it was pretty cool, and he said it can be quite helpful for reversing your car precisely), and even without the camera hooked up, the radio switches to/from the camera display when shifting into/from Reverse (I get the same black screen with guidelines shown in the WAMS video). My screen switches based on the Reverse signal, whether I have the camera completely unplugged from the radio or hooked up to constant power from a completely separate battery. At least in my case, the screen switching is 100% unrelated to what the camera is doing, and acts just like the OP's car does in his video.

I'll do a test before finalizing it, but at this point I'm planning to simply tap into the existing reverse light power and ground wires in the base bumper harness for my my camera's power. I see absolutely no reason to run wires all the way to the front of the car for camera power. I believe the delay is simply in the GM radio programming in the 2013 (and possibly other non-MyLink years), especially since Chris (of WAMS) said above that his OEM setup did it too.

And here's what everyone's been waiting for, a video of my test. I have a temporary RCA cable shoved into the connector at the back of the radio for the video signal, and the camera (COOLINT CT-X102BL) is powered by my motorcycle's battery (since it happened to be a handy 12V source next to my car). You can hear the clunks as I shift into and out of Reverse. There's a fraction of a second delay for the screen to come on when shifting into Reverse, and it immediately returns back to the radio when shifting out of Reverse. My elbow is holding the camera's cable on the armrest, with it simply aimed toward the back, and the same hand is holding my phone to record the video while I use the other hand to turn the wheel back and forth and shift. It's not the greatest setup, but it shows the general idea of how it works.



I can't wait to get the permanent install finished up! I'll get a better video then.
 
#36 ·
Bill,
Thanks for the information on powering the backup camera. It will be interesting to find out that the camera power comes off the backup light.

I got my radio back from WAM earlier this week, and I too will be installing a camera. I was dreading running a wire up to the BCM.
 
#37 · (Edited)
Another sucessful install

Ok, I finished my installation tonight, and I have a few notes I can pass along....

1. For the 2015 Model year, it appears all the wire colors changed. At the back of the radio, the video wires are in the correct place, but the colors have changed from what is shown in the first post. The +video appears to be brown/tan, and the -video appears to be purple/tan. At the back of the car, the +12v at the backup light is light blue, and the ground is black.

Electric guitar Hand Electronic instrument Finger String instrument accessory


2. There is a convenient plastic punch-out just above the driver side licenses plate light inside the car, this is a good hole to use to pull the camera wire through, and you can easily reach it after popping out the driver side license plate light.

3. The camera I selected was the Esky EC170-25. It can be found on amazon here. I picked this camera because you could turn off the grid lines at the camera, and use the grid lines that are superimposed by the radio. From what little testing I have been able to do so far, it appears to work pretty well.

4. I do get a black screen a few seconds after I move the car from reverse to drive. Given that we now know the stock camera is wired through the reverse light, I think the BCM may be leaving the light on a few seconds after the car goes into drive on cars with the factory installed backup camera. On cars that did not have the backup camera factory installed, the BCM may be cutting the reverse light off sooner. This is all just theory on my part.
 
#39 ·
Based on what I can see on their website, it's not what WAMS does and it's not much cheaper. They give you the option of having a local dealer reprogram it or you can send it to them and they'll install "the same factory software that the dealership would load into your radio." It sounds like what the OP described as option 2 (where they load a different VIN's programming into your radio to enable the feature). To have them reprogram it adds $175+$20 shipping to the listed price of the camera kit.
 
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