Jason. Only a fool believes what they read in the “press” these days. The demise of this, that, and the other thing is the ranting from our deeper disturbed cousin – the main stream media. It’s sittin’ in a rocking chair out on the back porch – writin’ and rockin’ and dabbin’ at the drool on its chin.

I don’t know of any project in history that succeeded if the people working on it were negative thinkers. Hey you guys, how about getting a life as well as a new ‘tude. Glad you weren’t in the control room for Apollo 13.

Don’t forget to sell your batteries to your local utility for one-third their retail price (less 40% to back out the markup). They could use the extra cheap storage and it’ll give you a downpayment on a more modern power pack. Better yet, sell your existing electric scooter as is (someone will be just fine with the existing range and performance) for a more modern electric motorcycle (there are quite a few to choose from these days) with a higher top speed once you get that training, pass the test and get your M endorsement on your license.”

Hey dude, been there, done that. In my jurisdiction my existing ride is legally a motorcycle and requires an M endorsement, which I have. I bought the right vehicle for my intended use pattern. Not for yours. 40 mph is good for my daily “commute”. My scooter cost me $2K. Show me a true electric motorcycle I can buy for 2 grand and you will have a sale. But it won’t be more efficient. At highway speed it is all about wind resistance and energy consumption per unit distance goes by the square of the velocity. The faster you go, the more its gonna cost ya.

My bike uses U1 size lead acid batts. When they are done, they are done for. My utility isn’t stupid enough to buy old dead batteries for $30 bucks when they sell their own old dead batteries at their recycling yard for 50 cents each.

No I don’t expect to do 150,000 miles on my scooter. Just calculating a number to compare to the Volt spec for its battery lifetime so people can better understand what they are b***hing about when they complain about the Volt battery costing somewhere around $10K.

P.S. Sell your Harley and buy a Civic. It gets the same gas mileage and will keep your head dry so you won’t suffer from so many rust impaired neurons.

I’m not sure of the etiquette here–should i post this in the new thread?

But anyway, the bondholders counter-offer preserves the government’s debt as debt. The UAW and the bondholders will wind up with the company. (And the original shareholders get to keep the same 1%)

I think that’s good for GM (it won’t be run by the government), and it’s good for the government and the taxpayer (we’re more likely to get our money back.) I didn’t think the bondholders (or the UAW) would be OK with that, but I’m all for it.

The bondholders should get a higher percentage of the new GM for several reasons.

1)GM owes them more money. (Which means under the bankruptcy code and the law of this country as written, they’d get more)

2) it’s much better for PR–a lot of people won’t buy from a company majority owned by the UAW.

3)I hope that the UAW’s stake will encourage them to make decisions that are in the best interest of keeping GM intact. But there’s no guarantee of that.

By the way, my interest here is a functioning healthy domestic auto industry. And I want the bankruptcy code, the credit markets, and the rule of law in this country to stay intact. And I’d like the taxpayer to be paid back as much as possible. I don’t think that’s unreasonable.